Ben Heck’s Xbox One Portable Part 2

Ben Heck’s Xbox One Portable Part 2


The Ben Heck show was brought to you by
element14 the electronic design community and online store built for
engineers and hobbyists alike join now & browse the store at element14.com ho-ho-ho and welcome back to the holiday
workshop in our previous episode we started
building the Xbox One tablet we made the screen portion and the
moving flap, today we’re going to keep adding layers, put in the Xbox One
itself and the associated circuitry let’s get
started Amazing builds exclusive mods cutting-edge ideas electronics, engineering and more! Every week on element14’s The Ben Heck Show In the previous episode we made the screen portion and the
velvet flap for the Xbox One portable, in this
episode we are going to continue from there building up away from the screen with multiple layers. We need to mount the motherboard Blu-ray drive, hard drive, the motherboard
for the LCD the Xbox One’s power supply, the LCD’s power supply and the power input jack, we also have to
make sure some of these ports are accessible for like USB sticks and
what not and if possible attach a handle to the unit. So I’ve laid the
parts out here on the LCD in the general position
they’re going to go I’m drawing this on the computer as well
but I like to see things in actuality beforehand. I think we have
enough room here and I have this HDMI cable which I carefully whittled away at and I’ve bent
it at 90 degrees one thing about HDMI cables, they tend to be kind of thick and bulky so if it was intact it
wouldn’t fit inside the case so I had to break it down I will seal it with hot glue to protect the
wires once I know that it works I think this is a good starting point. The first thing I’m going to do is reattach the LCD driver board and if that works
we can go from there This is the best place to put the PCB for the screen but it’s no longer in
range of the control buttons or the LED backlighting, so I’m gonna have
to extend these wires over to the board I’m going to use this ribbon cable which
is 26 guage I think It’s actually a little thicker than what this is so it should be fine. It should have a perfectly decent current-carrying
capacity alright time to get started this is the power brick for the screen
it will be inside the unit but I’m just testing it for now we’re gonna make sure that everything
still works, that we can see signals and that these capacitive buttons still work in their new
configuration let’s see what happens I think the display’s working, lets try and go into the menu I don’t really care for these capacitive touch buttons the Samsung monitors have my computer monitors back there have them
as well but they appear to work so you can just touch the surface here and the monitor will turn on it’ll probably turn on automatically
once there’s a single coming into it but there isn’t yet so alright the monitor
part of this appears to work I put a brace on this ahead of time to keep
it straight and level when I have a saw in it now we have this fifteen degree bend in
this piece as well every piece needs the 15 degree bend, looks like that lines up pretty good I put multiple screw holes in this more than I really
need because it’s being put together in layers so we’re gonna attach this piece to the
front of the frame and then you know, we’ll put certain screws
through that I’ve marked and then we’ll use the unmarked screw
holes for the next layer that way we can put it all together and
it still can be taken apart because you know I love to say, build things you can take apart wat does your mom even know what Game of Thrones is? Mine, I’m sure doesn’t I added a spacer here to brace the center of it the reason I wanna do that is because I wanna make sure that the motherboard stays straight if it bends too much you could cause
some the surface mount components to fail This is designed a lot better than the nice and toasty old Xbox 360 was but we
still want to take care of it I’m not gonna completely bolt this in place, I just wanna make sure that it fits for now, okay so this is probably going to have to be removed before we can go any further I removed this USB port the front panel header and I also turned a few of the capacitors
sideways to give us a low angle here I had to use the blowtorch because as I’ve
mentioned many times there’s internal ground planes on modern boards and it’s really hard
to desolder pins from there because the heatsinks everywhere so I actually
hit it with a blowtorch I used to do that a lot when I would
modify Xboxes so hopefully it’s alright so this sits here in this cavity see that? One thing I wanna check is I wanna make sure that the X clamp yep they’re still using the X clamp. I wanna make sure this X clamp doesn’t actually touch this metal It shouldn’t make a difference but I still don’t want it to happen As I mentioned, I’m doing this one layer at a time I find that if you and try to do
everything at once in the computer you might miss something and then have to go
back and fix it so if I do it one layer at a time I can
anticipate things that might go wrong so hard drive, it’ll probably end up going
either here or here the Blu ray almost definitely gonna go right here I also need to think about where I’m gonna put my fans to exhaust the heat from the heatsink HDMI plug see how there’s a cavity for it? And then this will
go over here and I will hand solder this end of the
plug to the LCD’s motherboard Again, I want something I can take apart once I know this is working which it probably is, once I know it’s
working I will cover this with hot glue to protect it Now that I have some parts together I can cut this cable a little short just like that and I left some slack on it just in case I do it wrong and I can try it again without having to redo this see? I’m gonna bolt this together and make sure
that it all fits Now it’s time for a Tech Timeout I found a great new app on the Google
Play Store called Zooper Widget Pro, now widgets are those
things in Android that you can put on your screen
to show you the weather or show you what music’s playing. What this app does is, it allows you to make your own widget which is really awesome it costs two dollars and fifty cents so it’s
not free but I think it’s worth it for instance I
wanted a good status widget so I wanted to see my battery level, the
time the RAM level, and what’s so cool
about this as I can go in and say I want a progress bar, I
want it at such and such a position and I want the progress bar to actually
curve 360 degrees so you have 360 degrees of curve here and it’s going to show my RAM for
instance and you can go in and type in all this stuff like okay show the total amount of RAM and the total current used RAM but there’s all sorts of stuff you can add. You can add the phases of the Moon the network tasks what your listening to on the radio and once
you have it the radio, I mean Pandora! Once you have
it setup then you can put it wherever you want
and so this is a two by two widget you can make a two by one, I made
this one here for the calendar and the weather you can
even make a widget that takes up your whole screen and it’s very fun you can easily spend
hours making your custom widget and the colors are custom, you can put bitmaps
the background I’d highly suggest it so Zooper Widget Pro on the Google Play
Store if you like designing cool things check
it out Neither of the new next-gen consoles
have standard audio outputs that I could connect
directly to an amplifier so what we’re having to do is use an HDMI
Audio Extractor to get the audio signal from the HDMI since that’s all we have
to work with which means we’re having to wire
HDMI from the console to the converter and then from the
converter to the LCD it passes through I would also say that would add latency
but that’s not really the point of this project So I’m hacking up several HDMI plugs in
order to make custom short cables so I thought I would use this time to
talk about how I’m doing it I started by finding the crappiest HDMI plugs I could find in my bin I had a Wii plug from… I’m sorry I had a Wii-U plug that one was actually pretty well built and
the reason why i’m looking for crappy ones is because they’re easier to hack so I cut off the plug and I slid it open and here’s what’s inside this this is a type of plastic that’s almost like a
very thick wax and this is sealing the wires in place a
higher quality HDMI cable would have a metal shield all the way
around this instead of just masking tape and this foil so basically if you need to hack an HDMI
plug use a cheaper HDMI cable, so to remove
this I’m going to cut the wax lengthwise and
I’m not trying to preserve the wires I’m just trying to get the plug Cut the wax lengthwise and now I’m gonna peal it up and the ends… there’s the pins do the same thing for this side I just hope I don’t stab myself with the tweezers I shouldn’t be afraid to cut, it’s
strange because as i mentioned I’m not preserving the wires although I’ve kept
other lengths of HDMI cable in order to get the wires So, to remove this I’m going to reflow the
solder always a good idea and bend it until the side releases and then repeat for the other side HDMI is very similar in fact it’s almost identical to DVI except for it has audio with it and what they do is they have four
differential pairs and we have to make sure we wire those
correctly in order for the high-speed signal to get through let me get this finished and then I’ll
show you that Here’s the HDMI arrangement it comes out on the Xbox One, into the
audio extractor and then the analog audio comes out here. We’ll power the audio extractor using a spare USB plug on the Xbox One and then the video comes onto the
extractor then it needs to go into the LCD here. I
removed the HDMI plug originally from the LCD
but I shouldn’t have so I had to reattach it and then here’s the plug that I stripped. It goes in place there and here’s the wire that we need to attach HDMI has four differential pairs. A differential pair
is where one has a higher voltage than the other and allows high speed data transmission, it’s also how USB works you can see there’s a pair here yeah
it’s got brown and white red and white and then in the back there’s going to be two more pairs green and white and blue and white so
those are actually the lines giving you the video signal the other
assorted wires are for device identification, hot-plug
detect voltage, ground, and a few other things so
when we rewire these we wanna make sure that we
keep the individual shielding can you see that little blue shielding in there? The differential pairs are individually shielded they also have their own grounds
as well so we need to make sure we connect all the grounds and don’t leave
anything unconnected so we get a good steady data signal. I’m going to cut this not as short as it has to be but I’m
going to think about how it’s going to attach and the maximum
length and we want it to be fairly compact so it’ll be about like that. So I’m gonna cut this and attach it to the LCD I finished my two custom HDMI cables so here’s what happens the HDMI comes
out of the Xbox One there, then it goes into the audio extractor then it comes out of the audio extractor then finally it goes into the LCD if we tried to use standard HDMI cables they wouldn’t have fit here, they would have all been too long, like one foot is as short as you can get so it took a while
but by hacking up these HDMI cables to short custom lengths I made something
that fits pretty good inside the unit although the fact that we had to use this audio extractor means that I had to do everything twice Finally, let’s install the power supplies for the LCD and the Xbox One here’s the Xbox Ones power supply I 3d printed a frame for it so we can bolt
it to the frame and then the frame can be attached in here
to the LCD so we’ll use double stick adhesive to attach the frame and then attach the
power supply to the frame basically we’re building up
structure as we go and then both the Xbox power supply and the screen power supply will attach to
the AC power input I’m also putting a frame here and it’s going to hold the LCD’s power
supply and I have it on a riser so the power supply is as far
away as possible from the data signal going to the LCD to avoid
interference I have to be careful with these screws I want them long enough to hold the motherboard to the frame but if they’re too long they’ll go through and push under the
LCD which I don’t want so in this case I added a nut to reduce the
length the screw slightly then once I know everything works I’ll probably put in some Loctite to further hold them in place Loctite! The lazy mans lock-nut! I’m gonna tie the AC lines together tying the lines together is just the same
as plugging them into the same power strip I’m using brown for live and white for neutral since I didn’t have any thick black wire this plug is labeled neutral, live and
ground so it’s pretty obvious where to hook
everything, the Xbox One doesn’t have a ground prong on it but I’m going to
add it anyway because you should. If you think about it even if it
doesn’t have a ground prong, if your TV or other peripheral does
it would detect the ground because HDMI or whatever would connect to the TV and
that would go to ground so we should be alright unless I’m making a major
miscalculation in which case I’m wrong Here is the power for the Xbox, I am going to attach it
starting this way and going up okay I’m setting it up in the position
that it will be in and I’m also gonna see if the Blu-ray
drive will function correctly at an angle they don’t use the Blu-ray drive much it’s
mostly just for installing games because when you run the game it’s just off the hard drive but still, it has to work okay so that’s the Blu-ray drive at an angle got the wifi, I still need to replace the
fan but that’ll happen in the next part. Got the hard drive and that should be everything okay we’re gonna test it one step at a
time felix is on my quick disconnect okay Felix go ahead and plug it in okay so the screen is working so next
I’m gonna try the Xbox the HDMI converter is getting power I think it just started the Xbox… the
main fan just turned on Hey! The HDMI works! okay, looks like everything’s working the HDMI passed through so all four of those HDMIs were wired correctly the Xbox One isn’t meant to stand on
its side like the PS3 and the x-box 360 did so I just wanna make sure the Blu-rays load
sideways I’m not getting a disk message here so I’m not sure if it’s actually
loading it properly, that could be a problem so the thing we have to figure out is
how to get the discs to read with the Blu-ray drive at an angle
because this Blu-ray drive apparently was not meant to work at any angle except
for being flat That’s all the time we have for today we
have the Xbox One running we know that it works and in our next episode we’re going to hopefully finish this build we’ll see you then It’s time for an
important update about the Ben Heck show Alyson has been with us for four years
now she’s been put through a lot of ridiculous skits and other questionable situations but
now she’s moving on to the next chapter of her life that’s right but don’t worry The Ben Heck Show will go on thank you to everyone for watching I’ve enjoyed reading your comments and
your emails throughout the years and it’s been a lot of fun Did you have fun dumpster diving? yeah yeah battling, all of that so we’ll find somebody new to fill my shoes but you know what they may not have the same acting skills you’re right they’re acting skills
may be better! I’ll murder you anyway thanks for your continued support
of the Ben Heck show and we’ll see you next time I simply released the monster within! Hey maybe Ally McBeals real name is Alyson I wonder who they killed on Walking Dead as long as they don’t kill Darryl, actually, I could live without Glen I’m not really into Glen anymore yeah I know terrible right Felix, how come we work under these conditions? Oh I’m sure you’ve heard least one of their
songs ♫ Don’t you hand me no lines and keep your hands to yourself♫ The Ben Heck Show was brought to you by element14 the electronic design community and
online store built for engineers and hobbyists alike join now & browse the store at element14.com

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